Thursday, November 22, 2012

Paparazzi and Turkey (or Duck)

Hello everyone,

So sorry I haven't updated in awhile. As soon as I got back from the US, classes got super hard so I've had no time to do anything! Last week, we started new classes for our 2nd module (mini-semester). I was supposed to just move up a level into a new comprehensive class, and a new listening/speaking class, but since I'm only here one semester, I really wanted to do a “材料课”, which is what IUP calls their independent self-designed courses. So instead of the regular classes, I condescended two sessions of one class into one, and added my independent class. In my independent class, I read articles (in Chinese of course) about my Fulbright research topic- women and NGOs and politics in China. It's been really interesting so far, although the content itself of the articles is nothing exciting. It's hard to briefly scan articles written in Chinese to see if they're worth reading so you just have to dive in. I've definitely learned a lot of great vocab already though. So I am now in 3 classes and have the coursework of a regular semester, PLUS my independent class= BUSY BUSY BUSY BUSY BUSY. Other than classes, some other highlights form my last two weeks:

-The first Sunday night I was home, my friend Thomas invited me to  Spark, the coolest club in Beijing at the moment, for an Olay "Winter Sunscreen" product launch party. (One of his friends works for Olay so that was our "in"). It was pretty awesome. It also happened to be "Singles Day" in China because it was 11/11 (all "1"s, which is like a single person, just "1"). It's mostly a shopping day (a bit like our black Friday, which is currently happening as I write!). It's also a day for various singles parties and mixers, and this was one of them...When we arrived, we showed them a random 6 digit number Thoma's friend had given us, and apparently that was enough for the entrance. Then we got the first set of party favors: a sparkly pink mask, a pink feather hair clip, or a blue sequin mini top-hat hair clip. I chose the pink mask. The whole night, drinks were free as long as you ordered from their pre-set list, which consisted of "fun", "fearless", and "female" cocktails (those were the drink names). As the party was sponsored by Cosmopolitan Magazine and Olay, they had cakes with their names on them:

People kept accidentally bumping them and breaking the icing, oops! I don't think they ever actually ate the cakes, at least not while I was there. Once everyone had a few drinks, the singles games started. There was a dance instructor who kept taking people up onto the stage (the stage was surrounded with small plastic strings that guided water down from the top of the stage to the bottom of the stage, creating a wall of water around the stage. Kinda cool...) to dance. Most of the poor chosen ones were awful dancers, but it was fun to watch:


the dance instructor

After the dance lessons, the dating games started. I don't really know what was going on, but I think there was a host, a single lady, and a single man, all chosen in advance to participate. The dance instructor would teach them a dance, and then they're ask them a few questions. Dancing shows like this in China are huge. One of the most famous incidents occured when a female contestant said she's "rather be crying in the back of a mercedes, than laughing on the back of bike", indicating her preference for money over happiness. This incident set off a huge controversy over the values of young people in China today, which lit up the Chinese blogosphere for weeks. Anyways, nothing that exciting happened at our party...

The host is in the middle. Notice the big hair piece on the female contestant- these were all the rage that night.
After the dating show part ended, they took down the water barriers, and opened up the stage for dancing. As some point in the end, my friend Sophie and I ended up dancing gangnam style on the stage with a chinese guy, while the entire rest of the club watched us. It was pretty embarrassing, given that I don't really know the dance. But we were literally the ONLY foreigners at the party so the paparazzi were all over us. There were a lot of photographers there because of the sponsors, Olay and Cosmo. My friend Thomas and I decided to be extremely animated everytime the paparazzi came over so they loveddddd us. It was pretty hilarious. Who knows, maybe I'll be in the next chinese Cosmo? 

Last Friday we went to our favorite beer brewery, which just put up their winter heat lamps and such for the winter. It was pretty nice, and I got to hear inside scoop from my reporter friends about covering the 18th Party Congress last week. Summary (also a real summary here): No one knows ANYTHING about ANYTHING or ANYONE in the Chinese government, despite these politicians being over 50 years old. The government closely hides most information about their leaders, and only tells the press what they want so they have to be skeptical of everything. No surprises came out of the party congress. The reduced the Standing Committee from 9 to 7 people, presumably to be more efficient since they work on a consensus basis. 5 of the 7 people chosen were picks of Jiang Zemin (China's president in the 90s), indicating he still maintains a great deal of power in the party. Xi Jinping is the new president, starting March I believe. No women on the standing committee, duh. :( And Hu Jintao stepped down as chair of the Central Military Commission, which his predecessor Jiang did not do for 2 years in Hu's presidency. This means Xi Jinping can take up that post immediately, thus controlling all 3 of the most important aspects of Chinese governance: Party, Military, and State. 

Also this week, I had 3 great "culture sharing" discussions with some Chinese people (fulfulling my Fulbright mission of "sharing mutual respect and understanding"):

1. This week I had a great discussion with some Chinese 20-something women. Our conversation that started out as part of a homework assignment to interview 3 Chinese people about “早恋” (puppy love, or young love) turned into a 2 hr discussion on religion, abortion, Planned Parenthood, US Politics, and more! It was super interesting. For example, I said that abortions are very controversial in the US, and they were flabbergasted! "But the US is so open and progressive," they said. I then explained the influence of Christianity on many Americans, and the socially conservative nature of the Church. They thought it was all very strange.

2. As a sign of my appreciation for all the hard work my teachers from last semester put in (generally above and beyond the standard), I brought my 4 teachers special gifts from the US. The first item, Ghiradelli Peppermint Bark, was well received. My second gift sparked more controversy: a hanky panky thong from my parent's lingerie store, Intimacy. Giving lingerie to anyone might seem pretty weird, but I've been doing it since I was a little girl (I usually gave PJs back then since I refused to admit to anyone until high school that my parents owned lingerie, not PJ & swimwear, stores for fear of harassment and severe embarrassment). As hanky pankys are extremely popular in the US and are usually received as a great gift, I didn't think anything of it when my mom suggested in. It wasn't until I got back to Beijing that I realized that many people, and almost all Chinese people, don't wear thongs. Maybe I've been desensitized to them over the years as almost all of my friends and I exclusively wear thongs. And from my perspective, they're a fairly normal clothing item that don't need to be reserved solely for special occasions or anything. But again, maybe I just like in my own little pro-lingerie bubble and have no idea what's going on in the rest of America. (I was surprised when one of my best Australian girlfriends here in Beijing said that most young Australians girls don't wear them because they're uncomfortable. Thongs aren't popular there...) So anyways, I give my teachers these thongs and chocolate bars. Two of the teachers wrote me emails thanking me for the gifts and mentioned they'd already tried and loved the chocolate (NO mention of the thongs). My other two younger and generally more progressive teachers came up to me in the hallway after class, giggling and whispering like 12 year old girls. They thanked me for the gifts, and sheepishly asked "Are they really comfortable?" I explained to them that they may take some getting used to, but are really comfortable and especially useful if you're wearing tight clothes. They giggled and said they were really sexy- another thought I've never had about hanky pankys (I guess lace thongs are fairly sexy, but I've been spoiled to the point that hanky pankys are a basic to me). Then my teacher confided in me that "One time, I bought a g-string [a thong with literally just a string in the back]" but she hated it (naturally, those actually do suck). The idea that "this one time I bought a thong" was so funny to me. The next day, my teacher came up to me in the hall, looks around to check no one is nearby, and goes "I tried them!" She thought they weren't too comfortable but assured me she's going to work at it until she can wear them because they're so pretty. I loved this whole interaction so much because going into the situation, it hadn't even occurred to me that there was this big cultural divide about lingerie. I thought I was just giving a normal "American made" gift that had a personal touch since they'd all heard about my parents' store already. But even better, my gift came with a cultural lesson! 

3. In my independent research materials class, I read a passage about "a controversial" investment an NGO made for public welfare. I asked my teacher, "why is this controversial? It's an investment in public welfare by an NGO." She explained: From a young age in school, Chinese students are taught about the greatness of their nation and their government. Then they get out into the real world and realize it was all lies. Their trust in so-called "fact" is totally shattered. In China, "facts", "statistics", and "evidence" are all easily fabricated or manipulated (Take China's unemployement rate for example). This then led to the most honest discussion I've ever had with a Chinese person about the true power of the Chinese people to change their government or to influence politics. Needless to say, she was very pessimistic and said she's thought about leaving China and moving to the US for a long time. I won't put the details of our discussion here just in case I'm being watched (haha, but seriously...), but it was basically a live, engaged discussion about my college thesis- SO COOL. OMG NERD FREAK OUT. 

Also this week was Thanksgiving of course! This year, I've been lucky enough to celebrate Thanksgiving 4 times! The first occured when I was at home in the US. My darling, sweet mtoher cooked a 20 lb Turkey ("go big or go home" as they say...) for 7 people, along with all the typical American Thanksgiving dishes. My second dinner was Wednesday night, hosted by the US Embassy for China Fulbrighters at the Renaissance Hotel in Beijing. They had a buffet complete with Turkey, Beijing Duck, Sushi, Indian curries, Hamburgers, congee, fried rice, steamed buns, and more! My favorite dish was definitely the AMAZING chocolate cake. I also got to meet a current Fulbright who's living in Xi'an right now so he gave me some info about life there and now I have a friend in Xi'an! That makes 2 friends so far. haha. Last night on actual Thanksgiving, my friends and I went to a 北京烤鸭 (Peking Duck) restaurant. As my friend Nick described it, "What did the Pilgrims do when they went to the US? They ate the local food. What should we do on Thanksgiving in China? Eat Peking Duck!" Excellent reasoning. It was delicious as always. Tonight we're having our final celebration, an IUP Thanksgiving Potluck party. I don't think anyone is making turkey, but I brought Stove Top Stuffing all the way from the US so I'm bringing that. I'm also DJing the party with my outstanding Christmas music playlist! Let the holiday season begin! 

Tonight, my parents arrive in Beijing! WOO! They will be here for the next 2.5 weeks so expect my next post to be full of stories from the luxury life in Beijing! (and hopefully nice quality photos if my parents bring my finally fixed-camera!)

Saturday, November 10, 2012

A week in the land of uncensored internet, cheese, and dryers

Hello everyone!

I have just spent the last week in the wonderful US of A. The week prior to that I had my final exam, which I personally felt went very well, but only received a measly "不错“ or "not bad" from my teachers. Oh well. You can't please everyone...So that week did not warrant a blog update since my days consisted of hard core studying and coffee drinking, with a small exception of some Halloween night festivities.

After our exams ended on Friday, the 2nd, a large (35+) group of IUPers gathered at a delicious GuiZhou restaurant organized by the wonderful Chris. Post-stuffing our faces on enormous amounts of delectable food, we headed to our friend Peter's house for a house-warming party. I was delighted by his choice to served hot mulled wine, a traditional European Christmas beverage. Anyone who knows me obviously understands my excitement about the introduction of a Christmas tradition in early November. :) The party was rudely ended by some neighbors literally throwing bricks onto the thick glass rooftop patio of Peter's apartment, and then followed by a brief police visit. Fortunately the glass did not break, no one was hit with a flying brick, and the police let us all go without incident.

Instead of returning home and going straight to bed, I got ready to go to the airport for by 6:45am flight. I got to the airport very early since I left over 3 hours before my flight due to a fear of not getting a taxi or some kind of crazy China thing getting in my way and delaying me. Once I got on the plane, I was dismayed by the treatment of the Chinese passengers by the airline stewardesses. It appeared that only 1 stewardess spoke Chinese, and several other Asian-American stewardesses did not. However of course the poor Chinese passengers could not figure out who they could communicate with, and the non-Chinese speaking stewardesses preferred to yell at and chastise all the Chinese passengers who could not understand them. As a "cultural ambassador" in China, I was appalled by the terrible disregard on the part of Delta for the obvious communication barrier. Of course most of the Chinese passengers don't speak English. Talking to them like they're idiots won't help. Instead, I tried to help translate for the poor old Beijing man sitting next to me, who had serious hand tremors going on for the whole flight. We briefly chatted about American politics (more on this issue here) and I explained to him how to play Sudoku, but mostly I couldn't understand him through his thick Beijing accent. The rest of my flight was uneventful, didn't sleep much but oh well. Even got upgraded on my flight from Detroit to Atlanta, woo Gold Medallion status!

Saturday afternoon I caught up with the family, took my camera over to be fixed, and then got a mani/pedi with my sister! That night I enjoyed a lovely home cooked meal courtesy of my darling mother. Sunday I went shopping with my mom and sister, which counted as my birthday presents! Among my favorite purchases: a gold sequined small square going- out purse with a tortoise-shell clasp; a navy and white polka dot robe lined in fleece; and black matte rubber rain boots with a bow on the side that double as snow boots when lined with Hunter fleece socks. Very excited about my gifts!! :) Also went spinning Sunday morning with my sister and dad- a big step up from spinning in Beijing, where I basically just make up my own routine because I can't understand what they're saying.

Monday morning, I yoga-ed with my sis, and then spent the day doing emails and blogging and such. That night the family and I went to Restaurant Eugene, a very fancy southern gourmet restaurant, to celebrate Emily and I's upcoming birthdays. It was delicious!

Tuesday, I went and voted with my family. I was so lucky to be able to actually vote in person because many of my friends in Beijing never even received their absentee ballots, and had to vote via Emergency Ballot. Upon arriving at the polling station, there were several races and constitutional amendments that I didn't even know about. As someone who desperately tries to understand and research all the locals races, I was frustrated that I hadn't researched those votes. It's amazing that no matter how hard you try, it's almost impossible to be an educated voter for every thing you're voting on...Tuesday afternoon I went rock climbing with my dad at our favorite gym, and were unpleansantly surprised at how bad we were! I guess we've forgotten a lot of our technique as we haven't climbed in awhile. For dinner I went to my sister's house so that I could watch the votes roll in in a friendly environment

Wednesday I had a number of dr appts, and a hair appt at which I dyed my hair chocolate brown! Unfortunately my usual blonde highlights will not last a year in China without touch ups and I don't trust a Chinese hair salon with that, so Shawn (my lovely and trusted hair specialist) and I decided that brown would be easier to maintain as it's somewhat closer to (but definitely darker than) my natural hair color.  Wednesday night we had an early Thanksgiving at my house with my Aunt and Uncle. It was so yummy! I have seriously the best mom EVER.

Thursday I had a few more appts, got a makeover with my mom, and had a delicious french lunch. Thursday night I went out with some girl friends from high school and had a great time catching up! :)

Friday I did some gentle yoga with my mom in the morning, and then got ready to come back to Beijing! Flew out that afternoon, and arrived here Saturday night.

Today I'm just getting unpacked and used to being back in Beijing. So good to be home!


Monday, November 5, 2012

"Do all Americans hate China?"

Over the last two weeks since the 2nd presidential debate, I have been asked by many skeptical Chinese people, "Do you like China? Really?". Due to the serious china-bashing that occurred during the debate, many Chinese people think that America's leaders want nothing but to see the demise of the Chinese economy and prevent them from continual growth because the US sees China as a threat. Of course, this is not exactly what Romney and Obama said during the debates, but this is how many Chinese people have interpreted it. The following article provides a great overview of the way many Chinese view the two candidates:

http://www.newyorker.com/online/blogs/evanosnos/2012/09/china-on-romney-and-obama.html

For example, last week on a trip to a local convenience store, I was approached by an older Chinese man who wanted to know where I was from. As this happens quite often, I responded "America" without hesitation. Upon hearing this, the Chinese man asked "Why do your leaders hate us? Do you hate us?" Of course, I tried to reassure him that most Americans do not hate China. "Obviously I love China, that's why I'm here," I told him. I then tried to explain that a lot of the rhetoric in the debate about China is just that, rhetoric, and most likely will not be implemented into real policy (at least, I hope not). He defiantly responded, "Well, you don't know. You can't speak for them. You can only speak for yourself." After awhile, I gave up. This debate between the old Chinese man and I was also complicated by his heavy Beijing accent, which adds an R to the end of many words making them almost indistinguishable to me. Upon seeing my frustration at the seemingly endless discussion, the shop keeper reminded me, "He only wants to talk to you because you're pretty." "Oh good," I thought, "Of course a woman, especially a foreign woman, couldn't possibly have any real intelligence to share." I began backing out of the store and escaped the conversation by just smiling and laughing, usually a very effective method for communicating when you have no idea what the other person is saying.

Similar debates rose up again this week while waiting at the airport to fly back to the US for a short vacation (more updates on this later!), and on the airplane flying to Detroit. It's very disheartening to me to hear Chinese people voicing these kinds of opinions about Americans because of several reasons. Obviously personally, as I will be living in China for at least the next year, I don't want Chinese people to hate me. But more importantly, I wish the candidates, Romney and Obama, would remember that the world is watching their campaigns. Foreign governments are shaping their policies towards the US with this kind of rhetoric in mind.

Furthermore, I believe the root of the problem lies in the upsetting fact that this kind of China bashing is what a lot of Americans actually do want to hear. Many Americans are both angry and afraid of China because of their growing economy, when in reality they should feel neither of those emotions. Do we really want to bring by low-level manufacturing jobs that China has "stolen" from us? Is that what we want our American economy to be based on. No, American's economic growth lies in innovation and development of new ideas for the future. It does not need to be supported by factories and low-quality manufacturing that most Americans do not really want to do anyways (that's why many of our more low-paying, low-skill jobs- such as farm laborers- are filled by immigrants who come to the US). And secondly, Americans should realize that they do indeed benefit by China's low cost production. If the US were to label China as a "currency manipulator", which they may very well be but I won't go into this issue now, this would impose a tariff on all goods imported from China. This would NOT be good for anyone. Let's look at the recent tariff on Chinese tires that Obama tried out a few years ago- After imposing a tax on Chinese tires, US consumers paid an extra $1.2 billion, according to the Peterson Institute as cited by the NY Times. Then in retaliation, China taxed US imports on Chicken, which cost US poultry producers $1 billion in lost sales. All of this only saved 1,200 American tire jobs. Because of its obvious failure, the Obama administration let this tire tariff expire this September.

Ok, I've rambled on long enough. In conclusion, China is watching the US election closely, and its already had real impacts on the way Chinese view the US and Americans in general. But don't worry America, you've got me (and a bunch of other wonderful China-loving Americans) over here in China to remind the Chinese that Americans still love them! US Government, don't let us down.